In June 2006 I was lucky enough to travel to Druskininkai, an attractive spa town, two hours south of Vilnius. I stayed in the pleasant Pusynas hotel where I watched England draw with Sweden in the World Cup. The only other guest watching the match was Rimvydas Valatka, the Lithuanian equivalent of Jeremy Paxman. (He supported Sweden). Druskininkai (much easier to pronounce after three glasses of Lithuanian vodka) is about 10 km from Grutas Park, a theme park set up by Viliumas Malinauskas, a man who made his money by selling canned mushrooms. He decided to collect communist statues from around Lithuania and bring them to a park. Whether Grutas park is a disney-style insult to the thousands who died at the hands of the Soviets or whether it is a historical outdoor museum, is a matter of debate.