At La Rochelle, I took a ferry over to the island of Oleron. A wonderfully quiet island with great cycle tracks. The only problem being that although the ferry does takes bikes, you have to take all your equipment off and the carry it up and down steps... not easy.

The campsite that I stayed at cost 10 euros and was clean and pleasant and a stone's throw from the beach. Early morning cycling along the coast, hardly anyone about.

Further south the quality of the cyclepaths improved, as did the weather. The ferry from Royan was excellent and I was soon heading south again on the southern side of the Gironde. I cycled through a nudist area where half the population were cycling around naked. Quite an, er, uplifting experience.

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